We offer only a limited selection of parts. The main reason is simple: most vintage pen parts aren't interchangeable. They exhibit a maddening range of variations, and often as not even a correct original part must be hand-fitted. In most cases, it takes as much time to figure out what a do-it-yourself pen repairer actually needs as it would take to do the job ourselves, so please don't take it amiss when we ask you not to inquire about pen parts other than those listed.
Please make certain that the part you are ordering is the one you need -- returns of parts will not be accepted unless defective or not as described. This also applies to renewable components, such as sacs and seals, as well as pencil lead, erasers, and the like.
Unless otherwise noted, all parts are factory-made originals (this does not apply to sacs and seals, where factory originals would be age-hardened and unusable). If unused, they will be labelled "NOS" (new old stock); otherwise, condition will be used but sound. As noted above, some hand-fitting of parts may be required, and nibs (even new old stock) may need some tweaking in order to give the exact ink flow and "feel" on paper that you prefer. Prices listed below do NOT include shipping and insurance; if you wish to buy more than one of an item, quantities can be adjusted within the shopping cart before checkout.
Items without an order button (or quoted but not listed) may be added to your shopping cart through the form below.
A nib block is an essential tool for straightening nibs that are sprung or otherwise damaged. Vintage examples are nearly impossible to find, however, and the modern tool steel blocks that have been lovingly machined and hand-finished cost hundreds of dollars, if you can get in on a one of their limited production runs. Some years ago, we bought a group of old nib blocks from a long-established pen repair service in England. Most were tool steel in various shapes, but a couple were made of acrylic. Though they had some superficial scuffing and scratches from decades of hard use, they were still as good as ever, which inspired us to use the same material for a new run of nib blocks, affordable for every pen hobbyist.
In many respects, acrylic is an ideal material for a nib block. While in some cases a completely unyielding metal surface is to be preferred, more often the slightest degree of "give" is better when bent metal is to be counter-bent to restore it to straightness (we often put a strip of thin paper over our steel nib blocks for just this reason). We have decided not to sell straightening tools for use with these blocks, given that they are widely available at very modest cost from other sellers. For around $5 one can purchase a burnisher as used by jewelers and engravers, or a set of dapping punches with polished rounded steel heads. Making one's own tools is another option: we have several made from cheap screwdrivers that have been cut short, ground round, and polished smooth.
Our new blocks measure 11.5 cm x 5 cm (4.5 x 2 inches), with diameters on both convex and concave surfaces running from 3 to 15 mm (1/8" to 19/32") -- a range that should accommodate nibs of all sizes, from the smallest miniatures to oversize dip pen nibs. Note that these blocks are cast, not machined, and that the convex ridge has a saddleback curve in the middle rather than being dead straight across the top.
$25 each (photos above show the block from each side)
These 3 inch by 6 inch (7.6 x 15.2 cm) mylar-backed nib smoothing sheets aren't cheap, but they are the best! Do not confuse them with cheaper sheets coated with aluminum or chromium oxide -- the industrial diamond coating on these is far superior, and strongly resists being scraped off the extra-tough backing -- so much so, that one can run the edges of these disks between a nib's tines to smooth the inside edges of the tipping material. Can be used wet or dry, will outlast other polishing media many times over. A single sheet should easily be good for smoothing dozens of nibs.
Available with particle size of 0.5 micron (extremely fine, for finish work or slow deburring; grey) or 1.5 micron (very fine, offers faster deburring; light green). $6 per sheet.
NOTE: These are much finer than mylar-backed abrasives sold for hobby use, while the grit size is far more closely controlled. This chart gives conversions between different abrasive scales, listing abrasives of 0.5 micron as equivalent to 60,000 grit (the finest Micro-Mesh offers is 12,000 grit), and 1.5 micron as equivalent to 13,000.
Cleanout bulbs are essential for pen restoration and maintenance: use them to flush out accumulated ink deposits and sediments from sections, feeds, and nibs, or to clean out dried ink from Parker 61 capillary reservoir units. Similar bulbs were furnished by Waterman for routine cleaning of their eyedropper-filling pens at the beginning of the 20th century. Cheaper, less risky, and often more effective than an ultrasonic cleaner! These sturdy, thick-walled rubber bulbs will last for years. The large bulbs will fit the section nipples of most pens, as well as Parker 51 and 61 nib openings. The small bulbs will fit slender pens and miniatures, such as Eversharp Bantams and Peter Pans. We also now have extra-large bulbs (not shown) with the same opening size as the large bulbs, but twice the capacity. $4.95 each.
Test tube brushes are another must-have. This set includes one large, one small: the first is a good general purpose brush for caps and most barrels; the second is ideal for the narrow barrels of eyedropper-fillers, and for cleaning out sections after feed removal. Two brushes, one price: $6.50
Long-necked applicator, a superior filler for eyedropper-filling pens (the long, thin tube reaches further into the barrel, filling it more neatly):
$0.50 each, ten for $2.50
Do you have an eyedropper-filling pen in the box, complete with dropper? Chances are, the original rubber bulb has long since hardened and shattered. These latex bulbs are accurate and functional replacements, $1 each.
Precision drill bits for mechanical pencil repair. Easily 90% of old mechanical pencils that don't work are only jammed. Nothing is wrong with their mechanisms, but lead is stuck inside. Sometimes it's just a single piece of lead that won't budge, sometimes a piece has broken inside, fragments jamming the mechanism. Clearing out the jammed lead requires a drill bit of just the right size. Too small, and a tube of lead remains which has to be broken up and coaxed out with a sharp pick. Too large, and metal is removed from the nozzle, leaving the fit of the lead in the pencil sloppy and loose.
These precision twist bits are available in two sizes, carefully dimensioned for optimal fit in mechanical pencils that use .9 mm (.036 inch) and 1.1 mm lead (.046 inch). Only a few hundredths of a millimeter (thousandths of an inch) smaller than the lead they are designed to clear, they have extra-sharply twisted spiral flutes which extract pencil lead residue far more effectively than the nearly-straight flutes found on standard drills.
$8 for three; will mix sizes upon request.
There are many lead sizes and grades that we do not stock. If you do not find what you need here, check the offerings of our friends at the Legendary Lead Company.
Thick 1.1 mm lead for older mechanical pencils (interchangeable with leads nominally designated as .046", 1.18 mm, and 1.2 mm), as well as .9 mm (.036") lead in various grades and colors. These are fresh production from Autopoint. Each tube contains 12 leads, each 1 3/8" long (3.5 cm). Black lead is $2 per tube; colored lead is $2.50.
VS (1.5 mm) lead, one of the most commonly-used sizes for 19th-century mechanical pencils but long out of production and very tough to find. Hardness is HB.
10 cm for $8 (five 2 cm pieces shown, though two pieces totalling 10 cm in length will be sent)
M (1.05 mm) was one of the other lead sizes most commonly used in 19th-century mechanical pencils, and now virtually impossible to find. Our true 1.0 mm lead will fit M nozzles, albeit a bit loosely. A thin coat of shellac will bring the lead right up to 1.05 mm, or it can be rubbed with beeswax to hold it in place. Another approach is to give the nozzle tip a slight squeeze for a snug fit. Note that current-production pencil lead sold as 1.0mm is actually 0.9mm.
Five 6 cm pieces for $5
Esterbrook screw-in Renew-Point fountain pen nib units are listed here
Parker nibs are listed below
New old stock vintage ringtop fittings, gold plated. Three illustrated, but price is for one unit. $10 each
New old stock 1920s style Z clip, three finishes available, please specify: gold plated (32.4 mm/1.275 inches long); chrome plated (33 mm/1.3 inches long); nickel plated (not shown, 30.5 mm/1.2 inches long). These measurements are for the visible portion when mounted, from top of shoulder to end of ball.
$8 each, 10 for $50 (can mix finishes)
New old stock clip, Duofold washer style but with arrow end, will fit 1920s nonstreamlined Duofold Juniors and Specials. Gold plated, vintage new old stock, 33.16 mm (1.3 inches) long, hole 11.48 mm (.452 inches) diameter.
$8 each, 10 for $50
New old stock clip, closely modeled on the Parker Vacumatic clip, will fit 1940s Junior and Major Vacumatics. Gold plated, vintage new old stock, 34 mm (1.34 inches) long, hole 5.13 mm (.202 inches) diameter.
$8 each, 10 for $50
Newly-manufactured precision stainless steel breather tubes for Aerometric 51. Our manufacture, made to original Parker dimensions. Replacements for the original sterling silver breather tubes, which are commonly found broken or badly corroded. Properly sized and located side vent hole is crucial for proper functioning. Available in both standard and Demi lengths -- please specify how many of each are required. If not specified, standard size tubes will be sent.
$10 each, 3 for $24, 10 for $65, 50 for $250
(Parker 51 Aerometric repair notes here)
NOTE: These will not fit pens originally equipped with plastic breather tubes. For plastic breather tube replacement, see our Teflon tubing listed below.
Our custom made all-metal adapters permit use of ballpoint refills taken from BIC stick pens in Parker fiber tip pens, including slender models such as the 35 and European 45. Fiber tip refills were discontinued long ago; the only other adaptors currently available are made to order in England and considerably more expensive. Full instructions on selection and trimming of refills here. $30 each
Shell (hood) for Vac-filling and standard Aerometric full-size 51, without recess for O-ring (will not fit late production 61-style 51 Mark III pens with coarse 32 TPI threads): black, NOS, $20 each
Dark blue (not shown; for Vac-filling 51s, more greenish than the Aerometric blue), NOS, $30 each
Shell (hood) for late production 51 Mark III with flat 32 TPI threads (will not fit earlier 51s), 36.5 mm long: black, NOS, $20 each
As above, dark blue (not shown) $20 each
Original coupler unit with sac for late production 51 Mark III with flat 32 TPI threads (will not fit earlier 51 models), NOS, $40 each
Clips for late production 51 Aerometrics (38 mm long, 12 ribs; will fit earlier pens, but clip length may not exactly match the original) c. 1960, NOS, gold filled or chrome plated, $35 each.
Inner cap for late production 51 Mark III (plastic liner, goes inside metal cap, holds clip retaining screw), 32.5 mm long, NOS, $5 each
Parker Classic nib unit, gold plated stainless steel, will also fit Parker 180; broad, NOS, $20 each
Parker 61 nib, 14K gold, medium, NOS, $30 each
Clip button for Parker 75 fountain pen or rollerball, earlier production with flat top, no recess, 8 mm maximum diameter; gold plated, new old stock with minor storage wear: $15 each
Clip for Parker 75 fountain pen, fibertip, or rollerball, gold filled, NOS: $25 each
Clip for Parker 45 fountain pen, fibertip, or rollerball, gold plated, NOS: $15 each
Desk base pen holder, hole at bottom end for attachment to swivel fitting, will accommodate most Parker desk pens from the 1950s-80s (21, 45, 51, 61); new old stock, $20 each
Replacement flat coil springs for Sheaffer Snorkel pens. The originals are prone to rust, especially if there is any leakage into the barrel interior from a failed sac or point seal. Even if the rust is removed, there is almost always residual pitting, and a Snorkel mechanism will not retract and extend smoothly if the spring is at all rough. Not original Sheaffer production, but newly manufactured to original specifications, 3 for $18 or 100 for $300
Skyline pencil clip assembly, NOS, $10 each
6813: Waterman lever box assembly for later production 58: original new old stock, fits 22 mm long, 3.2 mm wide barrel slot, nickel plated.
DATE: c. 1928 • CONDITION: mint • $125
9500: Waterman lever box assembly: original new old stock, 21 mm long, fits 16 mm long, 2.2 mm wide barrel slot, gold plated.
DATE: c. 1935 • CONDITION: mint • $15
9501: Waterman lever box assembly: original new old stock, 23 mm long, fits 16 mm long, 3 mm wide barrel slot, gold plated.
DATE: c. 1945 • CONDITION: mint • $10
Special thin-wall Teflon tubing will not corrode, low-friction surfaces resist ink residue buildup. Approximately .074" (1.9 mm) OD, cut to length and taper end to make replacement breather tubes for Vac-filling Parker 51s and later 51s with plastic breather tubes, Parker Vacumatics, Eversharp Skylines, and many other pens.
5 feet for $5, or 50 feet for $30.
NOTE: for Parker 51 Aerometrics that use a long thin metal tube, replacements are listed here.
For quantity discounts, put the item in the cart, adjust the quantity, then click Recalculate.
Sacs and seals are now listed on their own page -- use the link below.